Buffa's Bar & Restaurant has stood at 1001 Esplanade Avenue — on the border of the French Quarter and Tremé — since 1939. Today it's open daily from 11 AM to 1 AM, drawing from both the tourist city and the neighborhood city without belonging entirely to either.
Live music runs Thursday, Friday, and Saturday nights, and most shows carry a cover that goes straight to the musicians. Tickets are available through the bar's own site.